A few days ago I returned home to London after spending a week in Saudi Arabia performing the 'Umrah'. Umrah is a mini-form of the main Pilgrimage, Hajj, that Muslims undertake to Makkah.
How does one perform the Umrah?
Before reaching the boundary points of Makkah, male pilgrims wear two simple pieces of cloth known as the ‘Ihram’. This simple clothing removes any trace of wealth, pomp, status and position; symbolising our equality before God. Pilgrims then also enter psychological state also known as ‘Ihram’, in which they cannot even kill a fly.
Upon reaching Makkah pilgrims circumambulate the Kaaba, the holiest site in Islam, 7 times before walking between two hills known as Safa and Marwa. This symbolises the Prophet Abraham’s wife, Hajar, running between the two hills in desperate search of water for her child before God provided her with the well of ZamZam; which pilgrims still drink from today. Pilgrims then cut or shave their hair as their final rite before leaving the state of Ihram.
Lessons:
One thing that struck me about the circumambulation of the Kaaba was the thought of the billions of people who had preceded me in performing this rite. Those who in years gone past used to travel for months to reach it, to perform their rites and ask God for goodness in this life and the next. Those generations have elapsed and earned their due. But it reminded me that despite being in the midst of millions of people in Makkah, in many ways I was all alone; humbly hoping that this action would weigh heavy on my scales when I pass away.
One thing I took away from the ‘Saii’ (the running between Safa and Marwa) was to ask God to give us our water in the desert. That is to say, to ask for what is seemingly impossible to you. Hajar had no idea that after her life so many would follow in her footsteps and that the well of zamzam would give water to so many across the world still. If that isn’t indication enough to ask for the impossible, then what is?
Prior to reaching Makkah, I spent the first few days of my trip in the holy city of Medina. Although the Umrah takes place in Makkah, most Muslims find it imperative to visit Medina. It is the second holiest city in Islam, where the Prophet Muhammad, peace be upon him, spent the last 10 years of his life, where he died and where he is buried. There is a stunning Mosque there called the ‘Prophet’s Mosque’ that holds 1 million people, and at every prayer time it was pretty much full.
Despite living in London, before visiting Makkah and Madinah I had never seen such a diverse group of people in one place. Different ethnicities, languages and skin colours surrounded me and it reminded me of a verse in the Qur’an where God orders Abraham to call the people to Pilgrimage, saying “…they will come from every remote path.” (22:27). Indeed they have.
Another thing that struck me was that after every scheduled prayer, there was also a funeral prayer for someone who had died that day or in the days preceding. It was a sombre reminder that our wealth, position or status will benefit us nothing when we reach the grave. Our deeds alone making the difference.
I hope to one day write a longer reflection if God invites me back for the Hajj. But for now, I simply request prayers for my soul.
Amazing work!